seeley magiqtouch fault codes

There are overtemp sensors though. Maybe two flashes in every 3-5 secondsThe Fenwal unit Diagnostic LED is OFFThe return air fan is spinning freely when I spin it manually. Find these tubes, if they exist on your Vulcan, and inspect their integrity. If you can't find your user manual there are many guides available when you Google "Braemar Spectrolink". Might be a bad cap or burnt motor. But I would think that the (expensive) $400 fix would last more than a month so you should be entitled to a proper fix ? Hi Tony.P any ideas on my heating dilemma? Hi, I've got a seized combustion fan on our Braemar Th3 ducted heater. It works fine for a bit, then trips out. If it's still covered call them for the warranty service. I've done an old Southern Heating unit with unfiltered return air. It was new with the house in 2012, so warranty expired 3 years later, Yours is about the same age as ours. It felt as if the unit was trying to get started but just couldn't.In the mornings, I could see that the spectrolink remote had an error code 10 and if I pressed the RESET button twice, it started back on. Hi All, I have a Braemar ecostar and got the error code 18. If clear, try unplugging the condensate cable and running the heater for 20 mins with it unplugged. To set the fan speed higher, go into your programming. Hi all. starting to think paying the extra on the heater was not such a good idea. purchasing a Seeley evaporative cooler Refer to the Owner's Manual supplied with the controller for operating instructions. How do I turn it on? Already on GitHub? Any ideas or pointers would be appreciated. Looking at your image looks like my circuit board. The heater thinks it is working fine as there are no errors ???????? I am quite reluctant to buy SCC, as I am going to replace the current Thermostat with Nest Thermostat. Condensate detected in run (TGS only)18. Accessed this forum and read all about code 13 faults. Are you able to take a photo of the heater unit with the lid off it? It will start after a minute or so when the heat exchanger has warmed up, and will ramp up to the fan speed to it was set at when programmed. The front of the fan has a top lip that slips in and under the heater frame). When the bearing starts to go it works ok when cold, but then starts to heat up, is running dry, and then starts to seize/slow down. Ignition failure9. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated, or it might be time I call the experts.Thank you for any help!I can try uploading photos of the board if i can! agent has told us to have the gas meter looked at before he can get someone out to look at the issues. Hello. Thanks for your posts, which helped to solve my condensation error problem. The heater is working. As I had removed them a 'few' times it only took a few minutes, however I did need to 'lift' the Gas Tubes and Nozzles out of the way to be able replace the Brackets, way too tight !! Anyone any ideas? I have a Bramar TH3 series gas duct heating, and is having the exact same issue (lockout 2, as you describe above). Auto mode support has not been added yet - haven't yet looked into it. Just wont fire up. Many thanks!!! I'm noticing this behaviour in its operation which I'm sure I did not notice earlier. Brrrrr". Hello, new to this forum but desperate for some help! It looks to be something that requires a bit of work, but agent wants us to eliminate the gas as a possible issue by getting distributor to have it checked which is going to take a few days (in this cold). Will let you know when I get back. In our case, the thermistor is located about 3 metres down the ducting from the units heat outlet. They sent someone out who told me it was a faulty overtemp sensor. Hi Tony, Hope you are still keeping an eye on this thread! a17/14 magiqtouch controller installation tips 45 a12/14 breezair exs pad configuration 46 icon control box fan speed led . #7. if I try to turn on cooling AND cooling was the last mode it was operating in, it starts cooling. This will not cause issues when working on the combustion fan if you stay away from it. Under house. B 1 MagIQtouch Wireless Receiver C 4 AA Batteries D 1 Install & Operation Manual E 2 Screw PAN PHIL 6AB*1" ZP F 2 Wall Plug Yellow 5mm Item A ItemB Item C Item D SAFETY Responsibilities1 Risk Assessment 1 Warnings 1 FCC Compliance 2 MOUNTING THE MAGIQTOUCH WIRELESS CONTROLLER Location3 Mounting the Controller 4 MOUNTING THE MAGIQTOUCH WIRELESS Guy installed a new circuit board.Mentioned that it was a good idea to keep the fan speed on 8 or above. A Spectrolink (white, about 75mm wide and 120mm tall, or the newer touchscreen model?). It would be difficult to calculate Wizz because the faster the fan speed, the more electricity it uses. Replacing it with the published mandate package allows it to progress past the config flow error, but it still doesn't allow login. I cannot identify the vacuum hoses you you mention. I'll enable debug logs and see if I can spot anything. Start by cleaning the flame sensor (make sure it's the flame sense probe and not the ignition terminal). I have a feeling the bigger places are just going to take me for a ride Mad llama the symptoms sound like the combustion fan is dying/dead. I've no idea why it's not. I don't wish to sound disparaging but these gas ducted systems seem to have some big issues with design and maintenance. It has been running fault free for the last 10 years, until recently it has been going into a mode where the heater will stop heating, Ot flashes instead of the temp figure and the fan constantly runs at 5. Does that MQTT status update push data from the unit or is it some kind of health check? Wi-fi smart app (28 pages) Network Router Seeley MagIQtouch Service Manual. not impressed at all with Braemar, comparing to my old heater it takes so long to warm my place. I've looked in HACS, and unless I'm missing something, I can't seem to find any version of this for installation. Thanks all for the Information, especially Tony.P. I found leaving the app open for long enough it would also show an out of sync temperature value from the wall panel. The error code pointed to a pressure switch (p-100). Inspected underneath no blockage, no wetness. I also opened the cork and check on both outlets. As an aside, I had the error 7 code last weekend & thanks to this forum/youtube cleaned the flame rod & all is well. And, will work until it reaches the set temperature when it will cut out as expected but will not start and goes into lock down again and we get the dreaded 01 fault displayed. It's 6 years old and has the fan with the riveted lid. Hopefully that was from the magiqtouch integration updating, I did fix a few things here. I was asking so i could familiarize myself with the unit, so when the unit is out of warranty I at least will have a basic knowledge on resetting the unit, servicing it, etc. It would be wise to get the gas company to check the gas meter, to remove it as a possible cause of poor gas pressure regulation. The problem for me is far too many active projects, very little spare time, so yeah not a lot of progress. So I'd be running a multimeter over your gas valve like I suggested earlier. When I had it mostly working last time though there were some issues in the conversion of mqtt state to HA controls, and stability issues (it died after a few hours, probably a mqtt login/refresh issue). Update to Resetting when Controller shows Error '00'. . We have progressed to isolating the problem. If your unit does allow "heat with set fan speed" (like evap cool at set fan speed) it'd be helpful to know if that works with the current version? If it's the former, it could be useful for fixing the delay between changing settings and seeing those changes reflected. Img 1: The entire circuit boardhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwb9DJORj6JOd1p0THhOSWJ0M3c, Img 2: The Condensation Cablehttps://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bwb9DJORj6JOUFN4N0k1N2xXczQ. $253 / $275 for combustion fan new https://www.gasstop.com.au/product/320/braemar-combustion-fan or https://www.gasstop.com.au/product/90/combustion-fan-braemar. P-100 failed to close14. So I think there should be separate heat and cool modes (allowing setpoint control via the integration - ie, override mode) AND auto for program mode where dialling in a setpoint manually probably doesn't make sense. I'm getting the spanner, flashing "reset" and error code -19, does anyone know what this means?We only had a guy out a month ago to fix our heater (spanner pic, don't know what the error code was or what the problem was as I was at work when he came out & the family member who let him in didn't find out). I tested the pressure switches with a multimeter and they both seemed to open and close correctly. Versatile and intelligent controller (36 pages) Network Router Seeley MagIQtouch Installation Manual. I can recall having some info sync issues back when the mobile update earlier this year occured. Like some others have said, a cracked tube was at fault. Still experimental and doesn't support anything more than simple on/off and temperature control, but at least you can sign in now. Hi I am having the same problem with my Braemar TH420 ducted heating code 18 I have tried resetting the SpectrolinkI have pulled all covers off & checked for water or condensation.My unit has no condensation sensor to unplug.Does anyone have any ideas?Braemar want $240 just to come have a look. Condensate detected at start (TGS only)19. . Low flame condition is showing very low oursnot sure whats going on but with the weather change now I'm the temperature in the house goes up to 30 if i increase the temperature. Though I have no idea what "HX OT2 open at start" means either. Looks like we might have to call back the guy to fix it! Since then it's been more inspecting the return json format to infer what might go into the settings json. You can pull them and give them a clean with steel wool or fine emery cloth. Sorry I'm unable to help you any further Sam. Really disappointed with Braemar. Check for power at the room fan. I also got the dreaded -18 error. I checked the panel on the heater this morning and found the diagnostic light fault code is 3 combustion air pressure system failure. Unit was working fine until the other day (may have been a cold night) then just stopped. It needs to be turned on to do the above steps. Perhaps if you do get a chance to take a look at this, I would suggest that any setpoint change whilst in a program mode should flick the system into the in-built override mode. The unit should spend 90% (roughly) at high flame (eg mine reads 302 high, 16 low hours). I tried turning the mains power off multiple times and checked the intake air (Clean). The wireless remote control does not have the ability to display fault codes. Geez at this rate you guys will be putting gas fitters out of business lol. Probably needs to log into the system again after a while. I assume you have no other form of heating. Thanks for reply Tony I think your assessment is spot on. Remove the blower fan completely and wash the squirrel cage. 1,941 satisfied customers. I'm pretty sure it was the changes to AWS_CLIENT_ID and AWS_POOL_ID values that got it working for me. It's pretty inefficient and each zone calls the refresh method, so multiple refreshes happen at once, I'll fix this soon. Which cables to the fan can I test to see if its receiving DC 24 volts? Thanks heaps Tony, I followed the steps in the service manual. We don't use the auto timer settings or anything, is that what you're referring to when you say re-do the settings? P-100 open > 30 sec during run15. Machine wasn't kicking in so asked her to press RESET twice as per instruction manual. The fan speed is also dynamic. Placement of probe & temp setting (mine 21C) will vary this too. New board, all good for the last two weeks now again the same error, no heater. This is a wonderful thread I've read it all. Can anyone provide some reassurance. I'll try this on the weekend and report back. Yes, I will keep posting here about my case so that can help others as well! i too have the dreaded 18 code on my spectrolink!!! !i replaced the combustion fan earlier this year.code 18 is Condensate detected at start?not sure what to do next? For anyone interested, I have found out that "-18" means "Condensation detected at start-up" and to remedy, the condensation detection cable under the panel need to be disconnected. Error Code persists. I will check the ductwork tomorrow but it was working fine before so don't understand unless the kids have put stuff over the ducts ! 2 Flashes Fault Code #2 Failure to Detect Water at Probes. Have been trying some of the fixes on this forum but nothing has worked. My unit had reached 55C and triggered a cut off. Let's hope yours uses the same board as the older units and you may be able to borrow a Spectrolink controller to check the code. I can always switch between heating and fan mode without issues but, again, it's the last fan mode that was used (either cooling fan - fresh air - or heating fan). (Note: I had tried the other suggestions here, namely pulling the Condensate wire out of the Circuit board. Still nothing occasionally the gas wouldn't ignite, so I started thinking the Gas Valve was defective. How the hell does a simple cable and board cost $2000 to replace?! Being tired, I just blew everything yellow with the hairdryer. Take some photos and post them here if you need help identifying any parts, and please post back here if you manage to repair the problem so that others may benefit from your knowledge. SEELEY Ducted Gas Heater with MagiQtouch Controller or Manual MAGIQTOUCH CONTROLLER INSTALLATION MANUAL | 15 ILL1623-C Time and Date. I read on another forum that the condensation sensor can be left unplugged permanently for units located outside, but I do not know if this is safe or wise. It could be ants, a rusted terminal on the board, dry solder, failing start capacitor, etc. As a society, clearly we've not arrived yet at arrived at functional Ducted Heating technology :), I've already:- reset the controller- replaced the circuit board- replaced the ignition unit- replaced the flame sensors. Next one will not be Braemer! Now if we disconnect the red lead from the P55 pressure switch so it is not seen by the system, the exhaust fan starts. If the unit isn't throwing any more errors it could be that the return air duct has come off (possibly knocked off by a dog or fox, or a bad install). Only a 6 year old unit, typically 1 year out of warranty, damn annoying. Magiqtouch br Seeley won't power up. Thanks. I don't know if I'm suppose to post in here. Isn't this just fan-only mode, no heat or cool? Always fixed under warranty but i am worried the unit is not fit for purpose. They take about 5 seconds to show up. I have tried to check for what "ferdie1011" cleaning up condensate outlet in the middle of the heater at the bottom front. Pressing zone 1 will show you high flame hours, and zone 2 low flame. I have a TH523N circa 2010 with 8x registers. TROUBLE SHOOTING 29 TABLE OF CONTENTS. I tried removing screws from the combustion fan plate but it's still not coming off. Service Agent Fault . I did it by exec'ing an interactive bash shell in my Home Assistant docker container and using pip to install the mandate module manually. Is displaying a zone number that has never been configured and won't reset or turn off. The heater started working for a while then summer! Thanks Tony kindly for prompt reply. I took your comments literally! Glad to hear you got it working. I then replaced the lead to the circuit board..I then deleted the error code 18 from the controller memory as per the post on this forum (with the power to the controller off, hold zone 3 button down, then hold down fan button when error message 18 shown on the screen)..Switched on the controller unit, and the unit started again immediately. Great to hear that it's working again llama. By clicking Sign up for GitHub, you agree to our terms of service and My setup is that MagiQtouch controller is plugged into my evap, which is daisy-chained to the heater unit (all brand new in the past few years, this is how Braemar recommended it). Just testing it for the 3rd time right now and all seems great. Thank You for the encouragement and information provided by you all. I opened the heating unit lid and the PCB's LED is showing the following: PWR Solid GreenON Flashing Red, every secondGAS Off. I'm seeing this one warning (see sample below, line breaks added for legibility) in the HA logs that seems to indicate that, at least seems to indicate in this instance that it attempted to start both cooling (EvapCRunning: 1) and heating (HRunning: 1) simultneously. Controller displays error -18. We do not recommend unqualified personal access this menu. Any ideas I can try? The vacuum hose from the T to the heat exchanger has a hole in it. 1) Rubber Tubes: checked them without taking them out from the machine (not sure whether it's ok to disconnect them from the machine?? OP here. I've tried turning it off and unplugging on the outside unit, I'm not particularly handy but can usually work out these things myself, but googling hasn't really revealed much more to try. Error Code 18)Code 18 = Condensate detected at startShutdown type = L1, Above this table is Decode for L1 = User RESET from SCC PRESS RESET TWICE, I did this when the SCC was in the off Position.Open the door, press RESET TWICE. OT4 opened (TG5 only)7. The Red LED on the control board is flashing 5 times. Makes a noise as if its about to come on, but does not fire up. Condensate detected at start (TGS only)19. Good that it was still under warranty appears this may be another common weakness in the Braemers. The log entries all look pretty much identical (line breaks added - this is all a single line in the logfile): Interesting, I just got the same issue on my Home Assistant install. No, the heat exchangers rarely fail on these units I believe. I have seen you went through a lot (replacing PCB, capetc), did you manage to get it working in the end? In any case, the Tech can't check/fix the meter as that is under control of the distributor Ausnet & they have to do that bit. Only "issue" I've encountered is that the setpoint seems to default to the max_temp whenever the system is shut off. Its easy to get the fan out on the Braemar units.They seem like a good unit. any experiences, the price I've been quoted is it fair? Oh, and how you say fan things weren't working for any of the cards, then started working better? I'd start by verifying the integrity of the return air duct (if you look at the back of the unit, the return duct/fan is the right hand side, the heat exchanger/hot air side is the left). I'd start by checking the vacuum switch, or changing it out. The gas distributor has created a job order but because the issue I've raised is not deemed as an emergency (no gas smell), they cannot guarantee a 24 hour turnaround time. I can always switch between heating and fan mode without issues but, again, it's the last fan mode that was used (either . Does anyone know how to restart a Braemar TQ523 it says it needs to be restarted by a qualified service agent, also it states there is a fault 34 gas relay low error. Seeley international breezair magiqtouch controller has lost HX OT1 opened11. I suspect is an Overheating issue. Can't say I know what "HX OT2 open at start" means though think you may have to call the guy back out unfortunately. This saves our family at least $150-200 repair bill (call out plus some labour charge). If I have any problems I will post to let others know. :). Installation Operation Manual MagiqTouch BMS Industrial I just read this post today, I purchased the TQ523 last week to replace the old Vulcan V420 and so far so good but its only day 5. The unit I bought second hand was installed in the previous owners house by so called 'professionals'. Looking at the eBay image, it appears the diaphragm body can be disassembled. The fan is working fine. I bought a used unit a few years ago, and it was obvious the owners didn't have a return air filter installed. Hi, have had a few issues with ours. It could affect the gas solenoid valve in the heater.The gas burner in the heater would drop the pressure more noticably than the other gas appliances. In systems with multiple MagIQtouch Controllers, or a combination of MagIQtouch Controller with air sensors installed, the room fan speed is not user adjustable. But, as an alpha release, I'm really, really happy with it. (see here) if you want to try the newer values. Yes similar situation with us a year or so back (replaced thermomiser) Had a few issues during warranty period. A bit of wire poked up the pressure tapping nipple cleared whatever it was. Most of the other call-outs I've had to make were under the 5yr warranty fortunately, but I'm certainly not confident in their reliability at all. is this likely to be the exchanger not heating up enough to warm the house? Also, for me, with a heating system only, auto corresponds to "program" mode. P-100 closed at start13. It may also have insects inside it. The instructions Ive read say that pushing reset on the controller will fix it, but no luck. http://www.systemcontrol.com.au/product/electrical/switches-3/switch-pressure-braemar-630397. Those outlets look fine in my case no wetness around. Hi Tony, I have the p55 issue. Check the fault finding steps in the PDF link I pm'd to you. Flashing: cooler has a fault, number of flashes corresponds to Fault Code (i.e. Bypassing the PCB makes the fan run smoothly. The fan spins well and continues for a few seconds after a push. After few seconds -18 again. I don't know much about these units. It's a simple procedure, grab a copy of the service manual and see if wiping the codes helps. As suggested in this forum, I pulled the sensor wires off the Condensation Tray (would have been easier taking it off the board), and it fired up to return to a nice warm house again and a happy wife. Just want to make sure we're on the same page before troubleshooting. Keep in mind the fan can run ok after it has been allowed to cool, but will stall after it heats up. The combustion fan also never engages upon startup. Although the heater hasn't been fixed yet! Kinda, but kinda not. I believe you looked at your display just as it had reached the desired temperature and was ramping down the fan speed. also it states there is a fault 34 gas relay low error, It's not an error I'm familiar with Cold Eye, the codes are normally from 1-19 (on the TE-TH series). I did mine today and it took about 30 minutes all up to remove, clean and reinstall. Is auto = heat? Will try resetting the unit but doubt it will work after reading the threads. Be careful when working on the combustion fan, it is powered by 240v. What controller do you have? I have read this entire thread but still having problems and hoping Tony.P (you seem to know your stuff!) Does it spin freely? It fires up on the first stage, with the small flame icon flashing, and then runs at that setting for a variable amount of time: 30 seconds to 2 to 4 minutes and then cuts the flame and returns to "ON" flashing, before firing up again a few minutes later, without ever going over to the big flame icon.Any ideas please! Many thanks to everyone who has posted on here, your posts have solved many of my problems over the years. The temp is programmed in my case to 22 degrees but always defaults to 27 when off. The heater works absolutely fine, but for the first time I tried to use the cooling today and can't get it working. Remove the top panel (lid). 4 Flashes Fault Code #4 Failure to Clear Probes during drain. But you did point me the right direction. I can hear the sparker ticking over 3 times but no ignition. Did a reset, and then got a new error code of 16. I did this with my old HX100 Vulcan and kept it up and running until a few months ago.

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